How To Japanese Onsen

An onsen is a natural hot spring bath, and thanks to its plentiful volcanic activity Japan has lots of them and Yuzawa is known as an onsen town.  How do you onsen?  First off, you’re going to need to prepare mentally.

You will be fully nude, for most of the experience but so will everybody else.  Don’t worry about people staring at you.  Everyone will be too busy enjoying the onsen to really care.  Similarly, you need not concern yourself with being in the best physical shape.  After all, most of your fellow bathers aren’t going to have “perfect” bodies either!

Communal bathing (genders are separated most of the time) doesn’t exactly sound appealing to most gaijin (foreigners), but in Japan it is a beloved part of traditional culture.   Onsens are about Japan’s value on relaxation, health and utilizing nature.

Onsen water has been believed to have a multitude of healing properties basically since time began, and is packed full of minerals that are thought to be good for your skin, circulation and general health.

You may notice small bits of what looks like tissue paper floating in the water and deposits on the edge.  Don’t be alarmed these are mineral deposits and the Japanese view this as an indication of a high quality bath.  You will also notice a strong smell which is the sulphur and minerals.

There are quite a few rules of etiquette when enjoying an onsen, and this can make the whole experience seem a little scary and uncomfortable when you’re not sure what you’re doing – but once you’ve done it you’ll realize that it’s really not that complicated after all.  One piece of advice if you are unsure, inconspicuously observe what the locals are doing and take your time – look and learn!

Onsens come in all shapes and sizes.  Most local onsens in Yuzawa offer a small to medium sized onsen bath.  Larger onsen establishments may offer multiple indoor baths and even an outside onsen.

Remove Shoes

As you enter an onsen building be aware that you will have to remove your shoes (leave socks on).  Whenever you see a raised timber slated platform or raised flooring this is an indication that shoes are to be removed.  There will be a shoe rack for you to place your shoes once removed.  Do not stand on the timber platform with your shoes on – a huge no no!  Take one shoe off place that foot on the timber platform or raised flooring then remove your other shoe then both feet can be placed on the timber platform. Pick your shoes up and place them on the rack.  And never place your removed shoes on the timber platform/raised floor.

Paying

Most onsens will have a ticket machine to pay either outside before you enter the building or most likely inside at the entrance.  However the options will be in kanji but there is always the onsen owner or attendant to assist you.  Most onsens in Yuzawa cost 500-800 yen. Collect the ticket from the machine then give to the onsen attendant by placing in the tray.  Please ensure you take cash with you.

Dressing Room

Make sure you go through the correct  curtain!!  Do not use your camera or phone in the change room or bathing area.

Onsens are usually separated into male and female sections which are distinguished by the curtains at the entrance.  Red being female and blue being male.  In the dressing room there will be cubby holes and baskets and sometimes lockers.  Take your pick of any that is vacant.  Now it’s time to undress….fully!!  Place all of your clothes in the cubby hole/basket keeping your modesty towel and larger towel out. Remove watches and jewelry as the minerals and hot water may affect them.

Neatly cover all of your belongings with the large towel.  This is a respect to others so that your underwear is not dangling around on display.  If your hair is long make sure you tie it up.  No hair must touch the water.

If your nerves are getting the better of you and you need a toilet visit go before you enter the bathing area.  Grab your modesty towel cover any part of your body if you so wish and walk into the bathing area.

Modesty Towel

When you visit an onsen modesty towels are used for two reasons.  First reason is to slightly cover yourself if  you are feeling a little shy as you walk from the change room to wash stations and the second reason is to use the modesty towel to clean your body.  Warning!!  Be careful do not dip the towel in the hot spring bath water. Fold towel and place on top of your head or wrap the towel on your head and relax.  You may feel silly doing this but everyone does it.

Now that you have made it to the dressing room here’s what to do next!

Birthday suits only!

Yep – No speedos allowed!  No bathing suits, bikinis, bras or undies.  This (unsurprisingly) is the bit that puts most people off, and any first time onsener has felt the same anxiety. Once you dare to bare, however, it really doesn’t take long to get used to it – and when you see that the Japanese don’t bat an eyelid you’ll soon lose your self-consciousness.

Cleanse Before you Bathe

Japanese always clean themselves before bathing – and this is even more important when you’re visiting an onsen – to keep the water as clean as possible.  Every onsen has a row of wash stations around the outside of the bath.  Soap, shampoo and conditioner are usually provided (although you can bring your own if you prefer), and you are expected to sit down on one of the tiny stools provided while you wash. (It’s not the most flattering sight, seeing  yourself in the mirror).  It’s considered bad manners to stand up while you wash, as you might splash one of the people next to you – and you must remember to rinse thoroughly so as not to get soap in the bath water.  There are also plastic or timber basins that can be used to rinse the soap suds off yourself or some onsens have a hand shower.  Use your modesty towel to scrub away but ensure you rinse out all of the bubbles once you have finished and wring it out.  When you have finished washing ensure you rinse off your stool and basin as a courtesy to the next person and place back where you found it and wash away any soap, shampoo and conditioner bubbles down the drain

Time to Bath

Now that you are squeaky clean it’s finally time to enjoy the onsen water.  Don’t forget your modesty towel but don’t put it in the bath water.  Fold it up and place it on top of your head or wrap it around your head like a scarf (for the ladies).

Onsen water can often be very hot.  It’s best to take one of the buckets, sit at the edge of the bath, collect some water from the bath, and pour it on yourself before entering. Just try not to make a big splash when you do this.  At least pour some on your legs and feet first.  Then place your feet and legs in the bath while still sitting on the edge and then pour onsen water using the bucket over your body to help adjust, then slowly immerse your body into the water.  Some baths may be too hot for you to stay in for long periods of time. There is no need to try to force yourself to stay in. People normally stay in for 5 minutes or so.  If it gets too hot, you can sit on the side with your feet and legs in the bath water or there is often a large step you can sit on.  If you are feeling overheated  and cooked to medium rare go back to the wash stations and rinse yourself with some cooler water then have another go immersing yourself in the bath.

Washing Your Hair

You may like to wash your hair while you are at the onsen.  Most people do this after enjoying a soak in the onsen bath first.  They then get out and return to the wash station to wash their hair and then tie it up and return back to the bath for another soak.

To Rinse After the Onsen Bath or Not?

One question that many people have is whether or not to shower again upon leaving the onsen bath. There is not a clear-cut answer to this but both sides have their benefits. Onsen water have special properties that benefit the skin. This is why some people do not wish to wash off afterwards. If your skin feels nice after the bath, you might want to skip the shower.  On the other hand, onsen water is shared and some people choose to rinse off.

Drying Yourself

When you have had enough of soaking in the onsen bath hop out and walk near the door to the change room.  Do not go into the change area yet. Use your modesty towel to remove as much water as possible.  You can wring the towel out in onto the floor but not in or near the bath.  When you feel you are as dry as possible open the door and step into the change room.  There are often towels or a mat inside the door.  Pause and do another quick dry off to ensure there are no droplets of water that could potentially fall onto the tatatmi mat or timber floor in the change room.  Once dry walk over to your cubby hole get your large towel and give yourself another dry.  In the change rooms there are hair dryers and some onsens offer complimentary face moisturizers, Q tips, cotton wipes and hair brushes.

After Your Onsen

Congratulations you have just enjoyed one of Japans local past times.  Now that you are dried and dressed, it’s time to relax in the lounge area. These are typically located outside of the dressing room and are not gender-segregated. At most onsens you will be able to purchase drinks from vending machines and it is recommended you drink a lot of fluid afterwards to avoid dehydration.

Recap the Rules

1. It’s naked only or not at all
2.  No cameras or phones in the change room or bathing area
3. Clean your body before entering the bath
4. Rinse all bubbles off your body before getting in to the bath
5. Wash away any bubbles around your wash station after you have finished
6. Rinse the seat and basin you used at the wash station
7. Tie hair up
8. Keep the noise to a minimum
9.  Do not drink alcohol
10.  Do not eat food in the bathing area
11.  No running.  No Swimming. No Bomb diving
12.  No washing inside the onsen bath
13. Do not wash your hair in the onsen bath
14.  Drink plenty of water before and after your onsen
15.  Greet others in the bath with a friendly head nod when you get in
16.  Do not bring books or newspapers in the bathing area
17.  Do not put your head under the water in the bath
18.  Do not put soap or shampoo in the bath.
19.  Do not put your modesty towel in the bath
20.  Set you modesty towel on your head or on the side of the bath
21.  If your modesty towel accidentally falls into the bath, wring it out on the outside the bath
22.  When soaking feel free to get in and out of the bath many times. Sitting on the side with only your feet in is OK
23. Don’t soak for too long you may feel light headed
24.  Watch your body temperature and try not to get to hot. If you start to feel ill or light headed get out of the bath
25.  Stand up slowly in the bath.  Due to the hot temperature you may feel faint if you stand up too quickly
26. Dry off as much as you can before returning to the change room using your modesty towel. Keep the change room as dry as possible
27. Some hot springs don’t recommend that you rinse off after the bath to obtain the full effect of the minerals in the water. But if you have sensitive skin it is best to rinse

What To Take With You

• Money for the onsen
• Large towel
• Small modesty towel
• Hair ties or banana clip
• Own shampoo and conditioner if you want – most onsens do supply these
• Skin care
• Clean underwear
• Water to drink after the onsen
• A smile!